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Namdas

Far less expensive are these colourful floor coverings made from woollen and cotton fibre which have been manually pressed into shape. Prices vary with the percentage of wool – a namda containing 80 per cent wool being more expensive than the one containing 20 per cent wool. Chain-stitch embroidery in woollen and cotton thread is executed on these rugs.

Chain Stitch And Crewel Furnishings

Because of the high quality of embroidery done on wall hangings and rugs, Kashmiri crewel-work is in great demand throughout the world. Chain stitch, be it in wool, silk or cotton, is done by hook rather than by needle. The hook is referred to as aari, and while maintaining the same quality, hook work covers a much larger area than needle work in the same amount of time.

Samples of crewel work
Samples of crewel work

All the embroidery is executed on white cotton fabric, pre-shrunk by the manufacturers. The intrinsic worth of each piece lies in the sizes of the stitches and the yarn used.

Crewel artisans at work
Crewel artisans at work

Tiny stitches are used to cover the entire area - the figures or motifs are worked in striking colours; the background in a single colour, made up of a series of coin sized concentric circles which impart dynamism and a sense of movement to the design. Stitches ought to be small, even sized and neat. The background fabric should not be visible through the stitches.

Crewel is basically similar to chain stitch. It is also chain stitch done on white background, but here the motifs, mainly stylised flowers, do not cover the entire surface, and the background is not embroidered upon.

Wool is almost invariably used in crewel-work and colour schemes are not as elaborate as in chain stitch. This fabric is available in bolts, and is sold by the length. They make excellent household furnishings, being washable both by hand or machine.