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Spitok
Gustor Zanskar
The victory of Black
hat dancers over evil
Gustor literally means 'Sacrifice
of the 29th day'. it is traditional to the monasteries of the reformist
Geluk-pa order of Tibetan Buddhism. This two-day ling festival is held
mainly in the Spituk, Thiksay and Karsha (Zanskar) monasteries, at different
times every year.
The celebration ends with
the dismemberment and dispersal of the 'Storma' (sacrificial cake) by
the leader of the Black Hat dancers in a ceremony called 'Argham' of
'Killing'. This symbolises the destruction of all forms of evil. And
also re-enacts the assassination of the Tibetan apostate King Lang-dar-ma,
by a Buddhist monk in the mid 9th century. In some monasteries, an effigy
symbolising the strong forces of evil is burnt at the end of the festival.
The masks worn by the dancers represent the guardian divinities (Dharmapalas)
of the Buddhist pantheon, and the patron divinities of the Geluk-pa
order.
Doshmoche
Masked dances in the royal courtyard.
An ancient tradition started by the Kings of Ladakh, Dosmoche
is till celebrated every year in February with great pomp and fervour.
The courtyard of the chapel below the gates of the Leh Palace comes
alive with the music of drums and the thumping steps of the masked Lamas
from different monasteries performing the sacred dance-drama. T he Lamas prepare, consecrate and eventually destroy the sacrificial
offerings as the climax.
The tantra of 'DO'
The Lamas from the Takthok Monastery, the only Nyingmaps
foundation of Ladakh, who are experts in tantric practice and astrology,
prepare the elaborate 'Do' or Thread Crosses - the main objects of offering,
which ensnare all the evil spirits, hungry ghosts and demonic forces
when the prescribed mantras are recited and requisite rites observed
by the Lamas.
The festive procession
Ten other kinks of offering, of different shapes and sizes,
complement the main offering. These are brought down from the main venue
and carried through the main bazaar.
Black hat dancers, followed by the lamas in their religious
costumes and the local people in their resplendent best, make this a
spectacular procession. Musicians and the monastic orchestra lead the
way. Outside the town, the offerings are burnt and destroyed with great
fanfare to wish away all evil spirits and guard against natural calamities
and disasters in the coming year.
Dosmoche celebrations are also held in the Likir (Indus valley)
and Deksit (Nubra valley) monasteries. In Deksit, a number of folk dances
are performed as interludes of the 'Chhams'.
STOCK
GURU TSE-CHU
When even laymen can
predict the future.
Yet another festival of oracles, this is
held in Stock, the present seat of royal residence. The two Stock oracles
- unlike those at Matho are laymen, spiritually cleansed and prepared
by the lamas of the Spituk Monastery to receive the spirit of the deities.
As in the case of Matho, people repose
abiding faith in the predictions made by the Stok oracles.
MATHO
NAGRANG
The festival of the
blindfolded acrobatic oracle monks.
21,22 FEB. 1997, 12,13
MAR. 1998,
1,2 MAR. 1999
On the 15th day of the 1st
Tibetan month Monastery - the only Saskyapa monastic establishment in
Ladakh. During this festival, the two oracles of the monastery make
a public appearance in their full spiritual form. These oracles, actually
monks of the monastery, mediate in complete isolation for a state of
trance and invoking the spirit of the deities.
On the day of the festival,
they invoke and receive the deities and come into their full spiritual
trance. They run over the high rise ramparts of the monastery, jump
from one balcony to another and execute a number of acrobatic feats,
all while blindfolded!
People from far and wide come
to hear the oracles predict key future events an to seek answers about
their own future.
TSE-CHU
The festival of Padmasambhava.
The 10th day (Tses- Chu) of the Tibetan lunar month is celebrated
as the birthday of Padmasambhava (Guru Rimpoche), the founder of Tibetan
Buddhism.
The Hemis Monastery celebrates this event in the form of
a 2 day festival. Its resident Lamas perform sacred masked dances leading
to the destruction of the sacrificial offerings. Masks worn by the lamas
represent various guardian divinities of the Dugpa order, of which Hemis
is the leading establishment in Ladakh.
This 200 year-old tradition was introduced by a member of
Ladakh's ruling family who was reincarnated in the 18th century as the
monastery's Head lama, ' Sras Rimpoche'. The Hemis dances are a re-enactment
of the magical feats of Padmasambhava, in his services to the cause
of Buddhism in his eight different manifestations.
The festival takes an auspicious turn every 12 years in the
Tibetan Year of the Monkey, when the two-storey high 'Thankga' depicting
Padmasambhava is displayed. This famous Thankga, richly embroidered
with pearls and and semi-precious stones, is due to be displayed next
in AD 2004.
As the Hemis festival is held during the peak summer season.
It attracts the largest number of people from within and outside Ladakh.
YURUK
KABGYAT
An awesome spectacle.
This 2-day festival is celebrated during
July, in the spectacularly situated m0nastery of Lamayuru, about 127
kms west of Leh.
The masks worn by the lamas during the
dances represent guardian divinities from the Dringungpa pantheon. As
in the case of other monastic festivals, the sacred dance drama concludes
with the destruction of the sacrificial offerings. Devotees come by
the hundreds to witness the celebrations
Pilgrimage
to the Thangka
Phyang is one of the two Dringungpa
Monasteries in Ladakh. This monastery, 17 km west of Leh, holds its
festival in July/August. Like other monastic festivals, sacred dance-dramas
or 'Chhams' form the core of this festival. But the main attraction
for the devotees is the pilgrimages to the huge Thangka of Skyabje Jigten
Gombo, founder of the Dringungpa monastic order, which is kept on exhibition
during the two-day festival.
GALDDAN
NAMCHOT
Tsongkhapa's Birthday
and Buddhahood.
This socio-religious event
is celebrated to observe the birthday and the Buddhahood or Tsongkhapa
- the Tibetan saint-scholar who founded the Gelukpa school of Tibetan
Buddhism during the 14th century. The Gelukpa school later developed
as the dominant monastic order in Central Tibet.
The festivities include illumination
of all monastic, public and residential buildings throughout Ladakh.
Namchot heralds the beginning
of the New Year celebrations which continue till the festival of Dosmoche.
During this festival, it is
customary to prepare various varieties of the traditional dish, 'Thukpa'
in every home to be served to visiting friends and relatives to mark
celebration of the festival.
LOSAR
How Ladakh got its
New Year
This New Year festival has
an interesting history. In the 17th century, King Jamyang Namgyal decided
to lead an expedition against the Balti forces during winter. He was
advised that any expedition before the New Year would be inauspicious.
Like Alexander's solution was direct and simple. He advanced the New
Year celebrations by two months, establishing a tradition that people
still follow - celebrating Losar on the first day of the eleventh month
of every year.
Blending Buddhism
with Bonism
Losar is the most elaborate
of all the socio-religious events of Ladakh. It involves the entire
population of the region. Interestingly, the rites and rituals are a
mixture of Buddhist and the pre-Bhuddhist Bon religious practices. Preparations
start by the end of the harvest period when people start stocking provisions,
sheep and goats for the customary feasts as well as grain for brewing
'chang' (a local barley beer). New clothes and jewellery are kept ready
for the occasion.
Lights and Feasting
The festivities start on the
29th day of the 10th months with the illumination of buildings and shrines.
Sheep and goats reserved for the occasion are ritually slaughtered to
begin the series of evening feasts for all relatives by rotation.
Ritual and Warmth
The New Year day itself starts
with the offering of votives and greetings to various gods, elders,
relatives and friends. Afterwards, the elders await the customary visitors
who come to greet the family with presents and 'Khatak' (ceremonial)
scarf). The younger members go out to visit other families. Leh and
its adjoining villages wear a carnival look as people come out in their
colourful best. It is customary for the Muslims and Christian in Leh
to visit their Buddhist friends and greet them on the eve of Losar.
Guardians of Prosperity
Images of ibex and other auspicious
symbols are put on the door, walls of the kitchen and the top-end of
is central wooden column. The ibex is a symbol of fertility and is believed
to bring prosperity. Small images of ibex moulded from dough are arranged
on kitchen shelves to add to the good luck.
The procession of
fire
In the evening, the 'Metho'
ceremony takes place. The bazaars of Leh and the streets of villages
get lit up as processions bearing flaming torches pass through with
the people chanting slogans to chase out evil spirits and hungry ghosts
- the result of bad Karma (one's deeds). Whirling torches create a fantastic
display of fire and light. At the end of it all, the torches are thrown
well outside the town to bid farewell to the old year and to welcome
the new one.
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