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Road
Journeys
The
Journey from Kashmir
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Lunar
feature near Lamayuru
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The
main overland approach to Ladakh is from the Kashmir Valley through
the 434-km Srinagar-Leh highway, which follows the historic
trade route, also known as the ‘Treaty Road’. It generally
remains open for traffic from early June to mid-November. This road
journey provides the best possible introduction to the land and its
people. At one step, as you cross the Zoji-la pass (11,500-ft./3,505
m), one passes the lushness of Kashmir into the barren contours of a
trans-Himalayan landscape. Drass, the first township over the
pass, inhabited by a population of mainly Dard origin, has the local
reputation of being the second coldest inhabited place in the world.
But in summer when the pass is open and travellers are going through,
the standing crops and clumps of willow give it a  gentle
look. After Drass, the valley narrows down to almost a gorge. Yet even
here it occasionally opens up to allow small patches of terraced cultivation,
where a small village population ekes out a precarious existence.
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Srinagar -
Leh highway near Lamayuru
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On
leaving Kargil town, the road plunges into the ridges and valleys of
the Zanskar Range, over a huge mound of alluvium known
as Khurbathang plateau, now made fertile by a huge irrigation system.
Form here it descends to the Pashkyum area and passes through several
roadside villages before entering Mulbek, with its gigantic
rock carving of Maitreya Buddha and a gompa perched high on a crag above
the village. Mulbek is the transition from Muslim to Buddhist Ladakh.
Two more passes, Namika-la
(12,200 ft/3,719 m) and Fotu-la (13,432 ft/4,094 m)
follow the exit out of Mulbek valley.From
Fotu1a, the road descends in sweeps and turns, past the spectacularly
sited monastery of Lamayuru
and the amazing wind-eroded towers and pinnacles of lunar-landscape
rocks, down to the Indus at Khalatse - a descent of almost
4,000 ft / 1,219 m, in about 32 kms. From here the road follows the
river, passing villages with their terraced fields and neat whitewashed
houses, the roofs piled high with neat stacks of fodder laid in against
the coming winter. Here and there one notices the ruins of an ancient
fort or palace or the distant glimpse of a gompa on a hill. And at last
Leh is visible, dominated by the bulk of its imposing 17th
century palace.
The
Road journey from Manali
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The Leh- Manali
Road passes through spectacular landscape
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The
473 km Manali- Leh Road is open for about three months in the year from
early July to September. For much of its length, it passes through areas
so barren that it is entirely void of habitation. Lahoul district, through
which the road passes, is a typically trans-Himalayan landscape. The
first major pass in this road, the Rohtang pass (13,000
ft / 3,978m) which is crossed soon after departure from Manali, cuts
through the Pir Panjal range of the Great Himalayas. Lahouli houses
are built in the Ladakhi pattern, out of sun-dried bricks. Whitewashed
and flat-roofed, they stand among the irrigated fields of the villages,
which cling to the mountain slopes. Beyond Keylang, the region's main
town, the road follows the Bhaga River up towards its source, passing
a few more villages, the last till the territory of Ladakh is entered.
Now it hairpins up to the Baralacha-la (16,050 ft / 4,892m),
which is a tri-junction, with a trail from Spiti also joining in from
the southeast. This is the crossing of the Great Himalayan Range, the
watershed between the Indus and the Chenab. Now the barren landscape
becomes positively lunar with dusty plains stretching into the distance.
The
Zanskar Range, which lies next on this road, is crossed through two
more passes, the Lachulung-la (16,600 ft / 5,059m) and
the Taglang-la (17,469 ft / 5,325rn). Between these two,
there is nothing but rock and sand, rolling hills and broad plains scoured
by dust devils. An occasional pasture here and there provides nourishment
for the flocks of the nomadic Chang-pa herdspeople who are the region's
only inhabitants, apart from the seasonal entrepreneurs from Leh and
Lahoul, who erect tents and shacks at various points along the road,
to cater to the needs of travellers. Once over the Taglang-la, the descent
to the Indus starts, and soon one passes the first village, Rumtse.
The road follows the Gya River down to the Indus at Upshi,
from where it is plain sailing to Leh, past the Indus valley villages
of Karu, Stakna, Thikse, Shey and finally the Tibetan
village at Choglamsar, before entering the town.
Transport
Facilities
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On
the Kargil-Leh highway
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The
J&K State Road Transport Corporation (J&K SRTC) operates deluxe
and regular buses between Srinagar and Leh, with an overnight halt at
Kargil. Taxis are also available at Srinagar and Leh for the
journey. Groups can charter deluxe and A-class buses from the J&K
SRTC at Srinagar. On the Leh- Manali route, J&K SRTC and H.P. Tourism
operate deluxe and ordinary buses. The bus journey between Leh and Manali
takes about 19 hours or two days, with an overnight halt in camps with
basic facilities, at Serchu or Pang.
Air
Travel
The
flight route to Leh presents the visitors with a spectacular panoramic
view of snow-capped ranges spread out below, and the thrill of identifying
particular landmarks. The twin peaks of Nun and Kun
stand out high above the others. Tso-moriri lies intensely
blue among bare brown hills. The Zanskar River snakes
through the mountains, and one route of flight takes you directly above
the Zanskar valley, with villages and gompas clearly visible.
Far to the northwest, the giants of the Baltistan Karakoram dominate
all the other peaks and ranges. Indian Airlines operates regular scheduled
flights to Leh from Delhi, Chandigarh, Jammu and Srinagar. Jet Airway,
a private airliner, also operate daily flights between Delhi and Leh.
Internal
Transport
The
cheapest way to travel within the region is by public buses, which operate
on various routes according to fixed time schedules. However, the most
comfortable and convenient, though expensive, mode of travel is by taxis,
which are available for hire on the basis of fixed point-to-point tariff.
For visits to the newly opened areas of Nubra, Changthang and Dah-Hanu,
it is necessary to engage the services of a registered / recognized
travel agency for making all requisite arrangements
including internal transport. Detailed information about bus schedules,
taxi tariff, travel agencies, etc. can be obtained from the tourist
office. For the current taxi fare to various tourist destinations inquire
at the Tourist Office. For hiring taxis contact President/Secretary,
Leh Taxi Union, Telephone No. 252723/ 253039.
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