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Sightseeing
in Zanskar
Once the capital
of the ancient kingdom of Zanskar, Padum (3505 m) is the present-day
administrative centre of Zanskar Sub-Division of Kargil district. Its
older section, comprising of inter-connected adobe houses and several
high-rise chortens, surround a boulder-strewn hillock, site of
the erstwhile palace
and fort.
The new, upcoming
township is fast encroaching
upon the cultivated expanse, and a small market is coming up along the
newly built road. With a population of nearly 2000, Padum can be described
as the most populous settlement of Zanskar, which is otherwise a very
scarcely inhabited valley.
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View
of Padum
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Overview
of a village in Central Zanskar
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Incidentally,
it is only in Padum where there is a community of Muslims constituting
nearly half the township's population, its origin in the area dating
from mid 17th century. Lately, Padum has become famous as a major trekking
base and a popular tourist destination. Several places of tourist interest
in the vicinity of the townships can be visited in the course of entertaining
walks. 
The nearest
site is a set of ancient rock carvings on a huge boulder near the bank
of the Lung-nak river, just below the old township. These date from
the 8th century and provide epigraphic evidence that the region was
under the influence of Indian Buddhism since ancient times. The Stagrimo
monastery, with about 30 resident lamas, clings to a tree-covered
ridge above the old town, at an hour's uphill walk along flower-strewn
green hill slopes.
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A
religious congregation in Zanskar
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View
of Sani Monastery
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Across the
expanse of cultivation lies the old village of Pibiting,
dominated by its hilltop monastery, which is built in the shape of a
chorten or Stupa.
Sani
This
picturesque village is 6 kms west of Padum, on the road to Kargil. The
main attraction here is the castle-like monastery, which unlike other
monasteries of Ladakh, is built on level ground. By legend its origin
is associated with Kanishka (Kushan ruler of 2nd century AD) on account
of the Kanika Stupa, which stands in the backyard of the
walled complex. The main building comprises a huge multi-columned central
prayer hall housing an array of statues of popular Buddhist divinities
and Kargud-pa high lamas, while the walls are covered with frescoes
and adorned with Thangkas. The most interesting frescoes, however,
can be seen in a small, neglected chapel, at the back of the main building
whose walls are adorned with stucco murals depicting landscapes and
floral designs based on the life of Padmasambhava. Immediately outside
the monastic complex is an old cemetery surrounded by a ring of ancient
rock-carvings, which reflect Indian artistic influence.
Sani is
also associated with the famous Indian Yogi Naropa, who is said to have
sat in meditation for some time under the Kanika Stupa. This
site is now occupied by a small room housing a veiled bronze figure
of the Yogi, which is unveiled once a year in late July on the eve of
the Naro-Nasjal festival. People from all over Zanskar valley participate
in this festival during which lamas from Bardan Monastery perform masked
dances as ritual offering.
Karsha
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Karsha
Monastery above the village
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The largest
monastery of Zanskar, Karsha Gompa is an imposing complex of neatly
white washed building blocks comprising several chapels, besides residential
cells for its nearly 150 lamas, who belong to the Geluks-pa sect.
Built picturesquely along the steeply rising mountainside above Karsha
village, the monastery can be seen from far. The central building is
a large assembly hall housing an array of figures and the ornate throne
of the Head Lama-incarnate. Three adjoining chapels contain numerous
statues and other art objects, among which a set of exquisite silver
and copper chortens are worth noting for their beauty. Of particular
interest in the complex is the Lhabrang, a large temple
accessible through a vent in the roof, whose partially damaged walls
are still adorned with the original frescos believed to be more than
300 years old. The event to witness at Karsha is the 3-day Gustor
festival held in early July when thousands of devotees throng
the monastery to witness the mask dances performed by the lamas.
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Wall
frescols in Karsha monastery
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Other places
of interest in the Karsha area include an old nunnery called Dorje
Dzong, occupying a hilltop to the west of the main monastery.
The ruins around this nunnery are believed to be the original monastic
foundation of Karsha: the present monastery was founded during the 14th
century. An old stupa surviving among the ruins is still adorned with
the original murals, which reflect Indian artistic influence. Nearby
is the ancient temple of 'Chukshik-jal', which houses
an exquisite figure of Avalokitesvara as the main image. Its smoke covered
wall frescos are the finest example of Himalayan art.
Karsha can
be approached from Padum by the 9 km long link road, across an iron
bridge over the Stod river. It can also be approached directly from
the Tungri bridgehead along a 17-km link road that branches off from
the Kargil-Padum road at Tungri, about 12 kms before Padum.
Stongdey
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Rural scene in
Zanskar
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Perched
on a rocky outcrop overlooking the oasis-like village below, the picturesque
monastery of Stongdey lies 18 kms to the north of Padum, on the Padum-Zangla
road. An old foundation associated with the Tibetan Yogi Marpa,
Stongdey is now the second largest monastic establishment of Zanskar,
which is inhabited by a resident community of about 60 Geluks-pa
lamas. The sprawling white washed complex has a number of temples, among
which the Gon-Khang containing several fierce-faced veiled deities
is of particular interest. The climb up to the monastery from the roadside
is rather strenuous, but it is worth the trouble for the breathtaking
scenery of the valley available from here.
Zangla
Situated
35 kms further ahead of Padum in the northern branch valley of Zanskar,
Zangla was ruled by a titular king till his death about two decades
back. The old castle, now in ruins except for a small chapel, occupies
a hill overlooking the desertic valley below. Nearby is an old Buddhist
nunnery worth a visit to observe the austere lifestyle of the small
community of nuns. An old monastery situated in the nearby village of
Tsa-zar, midway between Stangdey and Zangla, has exquisite
frescoes that should not be missed.
Zangla
is the take-off point for the Padum-Lamayuru and the Padum-Markha treks,
as well as for the 'Chaddar' trek over the frozen Zanskar
river to Nimu, which becomes feasible only during
the middle of the winter.
Bardan
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Zanskari
villagers
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Located
12 kms south of Padum, Bardan is an isolated monastery with about 40
Dugpa- Kargyud lamas in residence. Founded during the 17th century
as the first ever centre of the Dugpa-Kargyud monastic order
in Zanskar, Bardan controls several smaller establishments in the region,
including the famous Sani monastery.
The large
assembly hall, around which all other structures are organised, contains
beautiful statues of Buddhist divinities and small stupas in clay, bronze,
wood and copper. Perched atop a rocky crag rising vertically from the
Lungnak riverbed, Bardan falls right on the trekking trail to Manali.
Nearby is the smaller monastery of Muney, also worth a
visit for appreciating its art treasures.
Phugthal
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Phugthal
Monastery
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By far the
most spectacularly located monastic establishment anywhere in Ladakh,
the Phugthal complex spills out of the mouth of a huge cave, high up
in the vertical mountainside of the lateral Shadi gorge,
through which a major tributary of the Lungnak or Lingti-Tsarap
river flows. Perhaps the
most isolated monastic establishment of Zanskar, its foundation dates
back to the early 12th century. At least one old chapel, among the several
of which it is composed, has frescos and ceiling decorations reflecting
strong Indian artistic and iconographic influence, which are almost
contemporaneous to those found in the Tabo and Alchi
monasteries. Phugthal is accessible from the Padum-Manali trekking route
via a 7-Km long trail that branches off from the main trekking route
at Purney Bridge. A visit to Phugthal, including Bardan and Muney monasteries
enroute, makes a good 5-day round trek from Padum. Alternatively, one
can add one extra day to the Padum-Manali trekking itinerary to include
a day return visit to this unique monastic establishment which was a
resident community
of about 40 Geluks-pa lamas.
Zongkhul
The other
spectacular cave monastery of Zanskar, Zongkhul falls on the Padum-Kishtawar
trekking trail, just before the ascent to the Omasi-la pass begins.
Built like a swallow's nest on the rock face in the Ating gorge, the
monastery is associated by legend with the famous Indian Yogi, Naropa,
who is believed to have used for meditation the two caves around which
the monastery has been developed. A footprint on a stone near the ingress
of the lower cave is highly revered as that of the yogi. The frescoes
on the cave walls are very old and reflect a high degree of artistic
achievement. These are believed to be the original murals executed by
Zhadpa Dorje, the famous scholar-painter of Zanskar who was active in
the same monastery about 300 years ago.
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